cooking. In the turmoil of the Southern Song, refugees brought cooking traditions of regional cultures to the capital at Hangzhou. After the mass exodus from the north, people brought Henan-style cooking and foods (popular in the previous Northern Song capital at Kaifeng) to Hangzhou, which was blended with the cooking traditions of Zhejiang. However, already in the Northern Song capital at Kaifeng there were restaurants that served southern Chinese cuisine. They catered to capital officials whose native provinces were in the southeast, and would have found northern cuisine too bland for their tastes. Song era documents provide the first use of the phrases nanshi, beishi, and chuanfan to refer specifically to southern (南食), northern (北食), and Sichuan (川饭) food, respectively. Restaurants were known for their specialties; for example, a restaurant in Hangzhou served only iced foods, while some restaurants catered to those who wanted either hot, warm, room temperature, or cold foods. Descendants of Kaifeng restaurant owners ran most of the restaurants in Hangzhou, but many other regional varieties were also represented. This included restaurants featuring highly spiced Sichuan cuisine; there were taverns featuring dishes and beverages from Hebei and Shandong, as well as those with coastal foods of shrimp and saltwater fish. The memory and patience of waiters had to be keen; in the larger restaurants, dinner parties with twenty or so dishes became a hassle if the server made even a slight mistake. If a guest complained, the waiter could be scolded, have his salary docked, or in extreme cases, even fired. Along the wide avenue of the Imperial Way in Hangzhou, special breakfast items and delicacies were sold in the morning. They included fried tripe, pieces of mutton or goose, various soups, hot pancakes, steamed pancakes, and iced cakes. Noodle shops were also popular, and remained open all day and night along the Imperial Way. Night markets closed at the third night watch but reopened on the fifth, and also gained a reputation for staying open during winter storms and the darkest, rainiest days of winter. Foods came to China from abroad, including raisins, dates, Persian jujubes, and grape wine. The Venetian visitor Marco Polo noted that rice wine was more common than grape wine, however. Although grape-based wine had been known in China since Han Dynasty Chinese ventured into Hellenistic Central Asia, it was reserved for the elite. Other beverages included pear juice, lychee fruit juice,