a heavy loading. (Of course, this is not an issue when using normal round cord for the Prusik.) Many materials may be used to tie a Prusik. The Prusik knot illustrated above is made with webbing, however webbing is not recommended for heavier loads and/or securing a person since it has been shown to slip. Adding more wraps increases the grip. Applications In addition to being a useful rope-grab for rope-rescue applications, Prusiks are popular for: Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Below The Device: A Prusik is placed below the descender and controlled with the brake hand. It acts as an automatic 'dead man's handle' should the climber be incapacitated or need to use both hands. Careful setup of the rappel backup is critical. An 'autoblock' or 'French Prusik' knot is most widely used in this application. Rappel Backup/Self-Belay Above The Device: A Prusik is placed above the descender and controlled with the hand not being used as the brake hand. This configuration allows an easier and faster transition from rappelling to climbing the rope, but can also result in the Prusik locking tight as the amount of friction required to hold the load at that point is far higher than that experienced by a self-belay below the device. Prusiking or ascending the line: Two Prusiks used in tandem can be used to climb a fixed rope. One Prusik is attached to the belay loop sewn onto the front of a harness, and the other attached below that is a longer length of cord reaching to one foot. The climber can then stand up in the foot loop, slide the Prusik hitch of the waist loop further up the rope and then "sit" down on it. Once in the sitting position, the climber can slide the foot loop up the rope and repeat the process. Escaping the Belay: In a lead-climbing situation, should the climber become incapacitated in a position where they cannot be safely lowered to the ground, the belayer must escape the belay in order to effect rescue. After locking the rope in the belay device with one hand, the belayer can tie a Prusik to the rope with the other hand, and then use the Prusik loop to transfer the load to a fixed anchor. The belayer can then go to effect rescue or get help. Rescue Applications: Rope rescue teams, such as in swiftwater rescue or in high-angle technical