it was different from the normal male dinner suit. The collar was more feminine, as the shape and curve were more subtle. The waistline of the blouse was narrowed to show the body shape, and pants were adjusted to help elongate the leg. It pioneered long, minimalist, androgynous styles for women, as well as the female use of power suits and the pantsuit in modern-day society. Some described Saint Laurent's initiative as empowerment of women by giving them the option to wear clothes that were normally worn by men with influence and power. Fashion photography echoes the influence of this suit in shoots that feature androgynous models with slicked-back hair in a mannish three-piece suit, a style that was first popularized in photographs by Helmut Newton.<ref name="alexander">Alexander, Hilary. "Smoke Without Fire". '"The Telegraph (December 12, 2005).</ref> This suit has continued to influence fashion designers' collections through the 2000s. Social occasions In traditional Western dress codes etiquette black tie is intended for adult men's evening wear. Traditionally, in the 20th century black tie, in contrast to formal white tie, was considered informal. In the 21st century black tie is often referred to as being semi-formal. Black tie is worn to private and public dinners, balls, and parties. At the more formal end of the social spectrum, it has to a large extent replaced the more formal white tie. Once more common, white tie dress code is fairly rare, being reserved for only the most formal occasions. Black tie is traditionally worn only after six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months. Black tie's rough daytime equivalent is the stroller, which is less formal than morning dress because, as with black tie, it replaces the tailcoat with a lounge coat. Contrary to the trend seen in evening dress, the less formal stroller is now extraordinarily rare, whereas morning dress is still relatively common. The most popular uses of the dinner suit in the United States in the early 21st century are for balls, galas, proms, cruise ship dinners and weddings. In these circumstances the dinner suit's styling and accessories are most commonly chosen according to the wearer's tastes. Less popular are black tie events, such as gala fundraisers, where men typically wear more traditional dinner suits and accessories as dictated by the dress code. They are also often worn by male musicians at concerts. As a general rule, boys