wings and inappropriately paired with soft pleated fronts. A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings Shirt studs and cufflinks. Some classic etiquette authorities limit studs to stiff-front marcella shirts only and prescribe pearl buttons for soft-front models instead. Black dress socks, usually of silk or fine wool. Some style guides recommend that the socks should come up to the knee. Black shoes – traditionally patent leather court shoes or pumps; now often highly polished or patent leather Oxford dress shoes instead, without brogueing. Jacket The original and most formal model of dinner jacket is the single-breasted model. The typical black tie jacket is single-breasted with one button only, with jetted, or besom, pockets and is of black or midnight blue; usually of wool or a wool-mohair, or wool-polyester blend, although other materials, especially silk, are seen. Although other materials are used, the most appropriate and traditional for the dinner jacket are wool barathea or superfine herringbone. Double-breasted models have become less common, but are generally considered equally appropriate for most black tie occasions. Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before World War I, but in the 21st century come ventless, with side vents, or, less commonly, with centre vents. The ventless style is considered more formal, whilst the centre vent is the least formal. The lapels, traditionally pointed and shawl, are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave, but can also be silk barathea. A notched lapel is usually considered more appropriate for a business suit that a dinner jacket but is commonly seen on inexpensive off the rack dinner jackets. According to the Black Tie Guide, the peaked lapel and shawl collar are equally authentic and correct, with the latter being slightly less formal. The buttons are covered in similarly coloured material to the main part of the jacket, which would typically be either self-faced or covered with the same material as the lapels. Some higher-end single-breasted jackets, both new and vintage, tend to be fastened with a link front closure which is visually similar to a cufflink; this traditional method of closure is common in the United Kingdom. The double-besomed jetted or slit hip pocket is the only style understated enough to complement the dinner jacket. Flap pockets are not considered appropriate for formal attire's refined minimalism due to their busier and bulkier design, and some believe that they are simply an