from the ordinary business suit, were a brief vogue in the 1920s. A single stripe of braid covering the outseam on each leg was an occasional variation at first but became standard by the 1930s. At this time double-breasted jackets and white jackets became popular for wear in hot weather. Colour, texture and pattern became increasingly popular in warm-weather jackets in the 1950s. In the 1960s, these variations became increasingly common regardless of season or climate. Notch lapels were once again a fad. By the 1970s, mass-market retailers began offering white and coloured versions of the entire suit to its rental customers. The 1980s vogue for nostalgic and retro styles returned evening wear to its black tone. Notch lapels returned for good in the 1980s, and in the 1990s tuxedo jackets increasingly took on other traits of the business suit, such as two- and three-button styling, flap pockets, and centre vents. These trends have continued into the early 21st century, and midnight blue is now once again a popular alternative. Composition The dinner suit's accompaniments have also evolved over time. The most traditional interpretations of these elements – dress shirt, low cut waistcoat (in the "V" or "U" shape), black bow tie, oxford dress shoes – are incorporated in the black tie dress code. Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black tie ensembles can display more variation. More extensively, the traditional components for men are: A dinner jacket, also called a tuxedo jacket in the United States, of black or midnight blue wool, though white may be used, traditionally associated with warmer climates. Silk jacket lapels and facings, usually grosgrain or satin, on a shawl lapel. The lapel may be peaked lapel or notched lapel, with some fashion stylists and writers seeing notched lapels as less formal. although they, like peaked and shawl, were used, though somewhat rarely, in some of the early forms of the garment. Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams, uncuffed and worn with braces. A black low-cut waistcoat or a cummerbund. A white dress shirt, with a marcella or pleated bib being traditional, with double or "French" cuffs and a turndown collar. While the turndown is most appropriately semi-formal, the attached wing collar has been popular with American men since the 1980s. However, many style authorities argue that the attached version now typically offered is insubstantial with minuscule