out of the youth culture when his 1965 collection presented androgynous figures and the image of a modern woman comfortable with her own body. As the 20th century progressed, underwear became smaller and more form fitting. In the 1960s, lingerie manufacturers such as Frederick's of Hollywood begin to glamorise lingerie. The lingerie industry expanded in the 21st century with designs that doubled as outerwear. The French refer to this as 'dessous-dessus,' meaning something akin to innerwear as outerwear. Market structure The global lingerie market in 2003 was estimated at $29 billion, while in 2005, bras accounted for 56 percent of the lingerie market and briefs represented 29 percent. The United States's largest lingerie retailer, Victoria's Secret, operates almost exclusively in North America, but the European market is fragmented, with Triumph International and DB Apparel predominant. Also prominent are French lingerie houses, including Chantelle and Aubade. In March 2020 The Guardian reported a trend for male lingerie on the catwalk and predictions as to the likelihood of it successfully extending to the high street fashion stores. Typology Babydoll, a short nightgown, or negligee, intended as nightwear for women. A shorter style, it is often worn with panties. Babydolls are typically loose-fitting with an empire waist and thin straps. Basque, a tight, form-fitting bodice or coat. Bloomers, baggy underwear that extends to just below or above the knee. Bloomers were worn for several decades during the first part of the 20th century, but are not widely worn today. Bodystocking, a unitard. Bodystockings may be worn over the torso, or they may be worn over the thighs and abdomen. Bodice, covers the body from the neck to the waist. Bodices are often low cut in the front and high in the back, and are often connected with laces or hooks. Bodices may also be reinforced with steel or bone to provide greater breast support. Brassiere, more commonly referred to as a bra, a close-fitting garment that is worn to help lift and support a woman's breasts Bustier, a form fitting garment used to push up the bust and to shape the waist. Camisole, sleeveless and covering the top part of the body. Camisoles are typically constructed of light materials and feature thin spaghetti straps. Chemise, a one-piece undergarment that is the same in shape as a straight-hanging sleeveless dress. It is similar to the babydoll, but it is fitted more closely around the