specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain expatriate communities. Black bow tie Traditionally, the only neckwear appropriate is the black bow tie that is a self-tie and always matches the lapel facing of the dinner jacket and braiding of the trouser seams. The bow tie is tied using a common shoelace knot, which is also called the bow knot for that reason. Trousers Black tie trousers traditionally have no turn-ups, also called cuffs in American English, or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single braid of silk or a material that matches or complements the lapel facing. Traditionally, braces, called suspenders in US English, hidden by the waistcoat, are used to support the trousers. Belts are never worn with black tie trousers. Evening trousers may be flat-fronted or pleated, with pleats first coming into fashion in the 1930s. Whilst flat-fronted trousers have become more fashionable, pleated trousers may be considered more comfortable by men who have wider hips and a narrow waist. Waist coverings A waist covering is generally worn as part of a black tie ensemble. Either a low cut waistcoat or cummerbund may be worn, but never both at the same time. Although the English authority Debrett's consider that wearing a waistcoat is smart, they no longer consider either waist covering to be essential. The American authority, The Emily Post Institute, considers them to be an essential component of proper black tie attire. Waist coverings are not matched to wedding theme colours. Waistcoat A low cut waistcoat should be worn when wearing a single-breasted coat. The waistcoat plays an important part in black tie's refined minimalism by helping to conceal its working parts by discreetly covering the trousers' exposed waistband and the shirt bosom's bottom edge. Waistcoats come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double- or single-breasted, with or without lapels. Single-breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double-breasted ones three or four rows. Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such as stiff fronted shirts. However, this style, though increasingly viewed as an affectation, is still acceptable in the United States. The waistcoat may be made from either the same fabric as the dinner jacket, as