treat at fairs and festivals. A sort of wonder poached in milk is known as a fliotte (eune fliotte). Cabbage loaf is the traditional Jersey bread baked between two cabbage leaves. Historically, Jersey produced sturdy walking sticks fashioned from the stalks of cabbages, known as "Tall Jacks", which had been induced to grow tall stalks by removing leaves around the heart. Vraic buns are very large sweet buns with raisins, and were traditionally eaten when men went out vraicing on the shore. Hot cross buns, a popular food around Easter in England, were not introduced to the island until the nineteenth century, but are now readily available. Jersey milk being very rich, cream and butter have played a large part in insular cooking. Unlike other parts of the Duchy of Normandy, there is no historical tradition of cheese – Jersey people traditionally preferring rich yellow thickly-spread butter. Jersey Royal potatoes are the local variety of new potato, and the island is famous for its early crop of small, tasty potatoes from the south-facing côtils (steeply-sloping fields). They are eaten in any variety of ways, often simply boiled and served with butter. Apples historically were an important crop. Bourdélots are apple dumplings, but the most typical speciality is black butter (lé nièr beurre), a dark spicy spread prepared from apples, cider and spices (especially liquorice). Although called butter, it does not contain any milk. It is traditional to hold black butter nights (séthées d'nièr beurre) in autumn. These are still an important traditional social occasion in country areas; the stirring must be maintained around the clock. The complete process of making black butter, including the peeling of the apples, the stirring of the mixture in a large cauldron throughout the night, the camaraderie and the jarring up was recently recorded by the filmmaker D. Rusowsky for a 48-minute documentary to capture the essence of this ancient recipe and reveal the spirit of one on Jersey's best kept secrets: its people. Reviving the tradition benefits not only people and communities but creates a fertile social environment supporting the conservation of traditional orchards, which are highly endangered. Cider used to be an important export. After decline and near-disappearance in the late 20th century, apple production is being increased and promoted. Calvados is also produced. Some wine is produced. Sport Jersey participates in its own right in the Commonwealth Games, in which shooting is