He also climbed the Nilgiris near Annapurna, and led the successful 1964 first ascent of Mount Huntington, in the Alaska Range, by the northwest ridge. Terray organised a rescue attempt of two climbers stranded on Mont Blanc in December 1956. For this he was expelled from the Chamonix Guide's Association, which had refused to participate in the rescue from the start on the grounds that the risk to the rescuers would be too great. Due to the fact that no other guides would accompany him, Terray set out a small team of amateurs. They were turned back on 1 January 1957 either by poor weather or on the understanding that a helicopter would attempt a rescue the following day. Terray was highly critical of the Chamonix Guide Association's inaction when the alarm had first been raised. Terray died on a rock climb in the Vercors, south of Grenoble, on 19 September 1965, several years after the publication of his climbing memoir, Conquistadors of the Useless. There were rumors that Terray was functionally illiterate and the book was ghost-written; however in a Foreword written by author and climber David Roberts to an English edition, he confirms he found the original manuscript written in Terray's hand which is word for word what was published, dispelling any notion that Terray did not write the book entirely himself. His grave is situated in Chamonix, France. A traffic circle is named for him in Chamonix, WSW of town. Principal expeditions Principal expeditions: 1942 - First ascent of the west side of Aiguille Purtcheller. 1944 - First to the east-northeast spur of the Pan de Sucre. The first on the north face of the Aiguille des Pèlerins and the north of the Peuterey lap with Maurice Herzog. 1946 - Spur north of the Droites, with Louis Lachenal, in eight hours. And the north face of Grandes Jorasses. 1947 - Third ascent of the north face of Aiguille Verte. The second to climb the northern face of the Eiger with Lachenal. 1950 - Lionel Terray on the expedition to Annapurna, the first 8000+m mountain successfully climbed. Terray did not summit but played a rescue role. 1952 - First ascent of Fitz Roy (3,405m) in Patagonia. Climb to Aconcagua (6,960m). 1954 - Reconnoiter of Makalu in Tibet. First ascents of subsidiary summits Kangchungtse and Chomo Lonzo (7,804m). 1955 - Expedition to Makalu, first summit (8,845m), with Jean Couzy.