contour. Skirts were supported by a hybrid of the bustle and crinoline or hooped petticoat sometimes called a "crinolette". The cage structure was attached around the waist and extended down to the ground, but only extended down the back of the wearer's legs. The crinolette itself was quickly superseded by the true bustle, which was sufficient for supporting the drapery and train at the back of the skirt. Hairstyles and headgear In keeping with the vertical emphasis, hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in a high knot or cluster of ringlets, often with a fringe (bangs) over the forehead. False hair was commonly used. Bonnets were smaller to allow for the elaborately piled hairstyles and resembled hats except for their ribbons tied under the chin. Smallish hats, some with veils, were perched on top of the head, and brimmed straw hats were worn for outdoor wear in summer. Wraps and Overcoats The main kind of wrap that dominated in the 1870s were capes and jackets that had a back vent in order to make room for the bustle. Some examples are the pelisse and the paletot coat. Style gallery 1870–1874 Walking dress of 1870 has a tiered and ruffled skirt back. 1870 fashion plate shows jacket-bodices with draped and trimmed skirts in back. Ruffles and pleated frills are characteristic trimmings of the 1870s. 1870s American bathing dress, with ankle length skirt, long pants, and long sleeves French morning dress of 1871 features a narrow red ribbon at the low neckline and a large matching bow with streamers at the back waist. Dolly Varden dresses of 1872 demonstrate the popular fashion of the early 1870s known as "Dolly Varden" Artistic dress of the early 1870s. Portrait of Mrs. Frances Leyland by Whistler. Day dress ca 1872-75s, purple silk Outdoor dresses of 1874 feature overskirts caught up with buckled ribbons. Jacket-bodices have cuffs and high necklines. Small straw hats with flat crowns and long ribbons (similar to men's boaters) are worn tipped forward. Gala dress ca 1874. Backview of a dress of 1874 shows the draping of the overskirt and the slight train on the underskirt. France. Dress of 1874 with draped overskirt and ruffled underskirt. Style gallery 1874–1879 Tight dresses with long trains of the mid-1870s are trimmed with pleated ruffles, bows, buttons, and braid, and are worn with hats with ribbon streamers. French gown is festooned with