market. In 2006, at the suggestion of his client Juan Gabriel, Ortiz launched his own label, Gioros, an acronym using the first two letters of each of his names, Gilberto Ortiz Osorio. In 2012, he was named one of the top three tailors in the world by the textile firm Scabal. Typically Ortiz produces classically styled garments using high-end fabrics, but his latest offering in 2017 featured men's and women's jeans. In the 1960s, Frankie Welch (self-identified Eastern Cherokee descent) began working as a fashion consultant to Washington's elite. After purchasing goods others made for her clients, she decided to capitalize on the rapport she had built and opened a store in 1963 at 305 Cameron St. in Old Town. Most noted for scarves, such as her Cherokee syllabary design, she supplied First Ladies Pat Nixon, Betty Ford, Rosalynn Carter, and Nancy Reagan with accessories. Welch also created dresses for the First Ladies, including a 1974 brocade gown for Betty Ford which was part of the 2016 Native Fashion Now tour. The green silk gown, which she also designed for Ford, is on display at the Smithsonian's First Ladies' Hall in the National Museum of American History. During the 1970s, other Native American designers began to make a name for themselves during the Indian and Natural movements, such as Jewel Gilham (Blackfeet) and Remonia Jacobsen (Otoe-Iowa). Gilham catered to working women, designing pantsuits and long dresses made of polyester fabrics with felt insets depicting geometric figures and native motifs. Jacobsen's work featured loose-fitting dresses featuring decorative techniques, such as embroidered ribbonwork in the Otoe and Iowa style, appliqué drawing on Seminole traditions, buckskin leggings patterned on Kiowa designs, as well as influences from Pueblo and Sioux decorative silhouettes. Fueled by the American Indian and Civil Rights Movement, countercultural consumers found appeal in Gilham and Jacobsen's work. Furthermore, their fashion fostered a pan-Indian unity in the quest for political power through self-expression. 1975 to 1990 When Josephine Wapp retired in 1975, Sandy Fife Wilson (Muscogee) took over instruction of her traditional techniques course and offered "Traditional and Contemporary Fashion Design" to include current fashion trends. Fife's students formed the Full Moon Fashions group and began targeting non-native women as prospective buyers for their products. In 1982, when Wendy Ponca (Osage) took over the fashion design courses at the IAIA, she renamed them fiber arts in accordance with other accredited university curricula,