<prompt> Human: Heres the quote I got yesterday for a 2016 Mazda CX-5 Touring AWD, 33 Month Lease and 15k miles per year. MRSP: 27,400 Price: 26,200 TaxLicense: 542 Fee: 434 Rebate: 300 Money Factor: .00051 Money Down: 2,000 Monthly Payment: 295 Residual: 16,440So not including the fees and include 300 back, I would pay 11,435 over the 33 months.Is this a good deal, if not what should I try and negotiate? EDITED: added the money factor  <response>: Jesus, that is a terrible lease deal. DO NOT EVER PUT MONEY DOWN ON A LEASE! From a previous comment of mine, which gives a decent overview of leasing: Generally, if you change NEW cars every 3-5 years, leasing is better. If youre buying used cars, you cant lease them, only buy outright. That being said, here are some general guidelines for leasing vs buying and why leasing can sometimes work: Long term, buying slightly used and keeping the car for a long time is almost always better than leasing new because eventually you will not have a car payment with a used car, but always will if you perpetually lease new cars every 3-5 years. Long term, leasing new and then buying after the lease is sometimes better than buying outright- see below. This is if you keep the car after the lease is up. You should never, ever, ever, EVER, put money down on a lease. EVER! The only exception being multiple refundable security deposits to lower your money factor interest rate. MOST reputable leases include GAP insurance so you will never be upside down in case the car is totaled. The GAP insurance only covers you in the event that your balance owed on the lease is more than the value of the car. Any down payment is pure risk for you as it is not covered by GAP insurance. As I said above, there are some reasons why leasing can be worthwhile such as leasing new and then buying after the lease is sometimes instead of just buying outright: With leasing it is possible to, in the long run, acquire a vehicle for thousands less than if you had purchased it outright to begin with. Also, for the initial lease period, all the depreciation risk is on the leasing company and not you. For example, buy a car at 90 of MSRP, with an artificially inflated residual value of 65 after 3 years. You pay 90 - 65 25 of MSRP over the lease period. At the end of the lease you can turn around and buy the same car for its fair market value at that time, which with a luxury sedan might be 50 of original MSRP. So in the long term if you had purchased outright you would have paid 90 of MSRP, but by doing the lease first, then a purchase, you could end up paying 25 50 75 of MSRP. For the exact same car! A 15 savings. At the end of the lease you generally have a few options: 1 Turn it in the car and simply walk away. Usually youll have to pay a lease end disposition fee of a few hundred dollars if you do this. The amount will be stated in your contract up front. I believe BMW is 350 for example. Note: BMWs policy is to waive this fee if you lease or buy another new BMW at the time you turn in the car. 2 Buy the car at the stated residual value in the contract i.e. 65 of MSRP in my example. Unless the used car market has taken off and the car is worth more than the residual value this is probably not a good idea. But if for whatever reason the car is worth 70 somehow, you can buy it at 65 regardless. The lease end disposition fee is waived if you purchase the car. 3 Negotiate with the leasing bank and buy your same car at whatever fair market value is at the time the lease is up. Sometimes they wont negotiate and will simply make you a fair market value offer. Having option 1 is what give you the most power. For example if you were involved in an accident during the initial lease period, then obviously that affects the value of the car. But as long as you fix the car the residual value is set in your lease contract regardless and you can walk away owing nothing more than the lease disposition fee, regardless of true market value. Or in other words, during the lease period, all the risk in the cars true value is on the leasing bank, not you. This is why it is better to lease if you switch new cars every 3-5 years. You shift the risk to the lender if the value plummets. You can use this leverage being able to simply walk away to your advantage when negotiating to buyout your car at the end of the lease option 3, because it WILL cost them money to get your car ready to resell to the next person. YOU always have the option of simply finding an identical used car and buying it elsewhere at fair market price and they will have to sell the car you turn in at fair market cost after paying to get it ready to sell. Makes more sense for both of you for them to cut you a slight deal if you want to keep the same vehicle at lease end, right? 