<prompt> Fingqa isihloko: Umqondisi wethu uyamomotheka: Sivame ukuhlaselwa, ikakhulukazi ngesikhathi sokuvuna. U-Ahmad, oneminyaka engu-72, uthola izinto eziningi zihlekisa. Unembongolo ebizwa ngokuthi i-Easyjet futhi usitshela ukuthi omakhelwane bakhe abaningi bayophila kuze kube iminyaka engu-105. Isonto lethu eRif, isifunda sezintaba saseNyakatho yeMorocco, lilandela lesi simiso - ligcwele izinto ezimangazayo. Iziqongo zezintaba zigcwele iqhwa, kodwa, ezansi, ungathenga amawolintshi amakhulu njengekhanda lengane. I-Rif oyofuna ukuyizwa kuze kube phakade: Izintaba zaseRif ziyingxenye enhle - kodwa engaziwa kangako - yaseMorocco. Lapho u-Ahmad ehamba emaphandleni sibona abesifazane basezintabeni begqoke izigqoko ezinemiphetho ebanzi ezihlotshiswe ngama-pom-pom. Ngolunye usuku sikhuphuka emagcekeni amahle anotshani nezithelo, bese kuthi ngakusasa sibe sesivunweni sensangu noma i-kif. Kungenxa yabalimi kuphela, kusho u-Ahmad ngokunganaki. Izinwele ezinde azisafiki. Kodwa into exakile kunazo zonke idolobha lethu lokuqala, iChefchaouen. Izingxenye ezindala zonke zinombala onsomi oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, njengokungathi yonke i-medina igcotshwe ngoyinki. Endodakazini yami uLucy, eneminyaka eyishumi ubudala, lokhu kuyathakazelisa, futhi sihambela yonke imigwaqo nemigudu enamaqhuqhuva, sihlolisisa yonke imizi emidala. Azikho izimoto kule ndawo enhle enombala onsomi, futhi ekuseni wonke umuntu ugijimela emathangini omphakathi. Sahlala eLina Ryad, indawo encane yekhulu lama-21 eyayiphakathi kwalezi zindawo eziphuphayo. Inendawo yokubhukuda, edolobheni lapho abantu abaningi becabanga ukuthi isiminyaminya sinamaphiko. Lena akuyona indawo yokuthenga okuvamile. Ngandlela-thile sigcina sinezibopho ezindala zezigqila 7, ifulege elikhulu 6 nesigqoko sekhanda esiliva esishaqekile 30. Isikhathi esiningi kwanele ukuzulazula nje. Sisendaweni ebizwa ngokuthi i-kasbah noma inqaba singabona ukuphila kwabantu. Njengoba ilanga lishisa, amakhosikazi aya emfuleni ayogeza amakhaphethi awo. Ngemva kwezinsuku ezimbalwa, siya enyakatho. Izwe nedolobha: Owesifazane ovela esifundeni saseRif ogqoke izingubo zendabuko kwesobunxele; imigwaqo yangasese yaseTangier kwesokudla I-Rif kungenzeka ingabi yindawo ephakeme kunazo zonke eMorocco, kodwa iyathakazelisa...  <response>: Izintaba zaseRif zaseMorocco ziyindawo enhle yokubaleka ngokuthula. Lolu hlu lwezintaba luvela enyakatho yezwe - kodwa alwaziwa kangako. Lezi ziqongo futhi ziseduze nedolobha laseTangier, elinomlando ocebile. 